Want a real safari adventure? Leave the touristy national parks behind and go remote. Really remote. South Luangwa National Park is located in Eastern Zambia. The easiest way to reach the national park is to fly to Mfuwe from either Lusaka or Livingstone or charter a plane. Reaching South Luangwa by road should only be undertaken by those driving a 4x4 vehicle and only during the dry season. Road conditions are poor and may be impassable during the rainy season.
South Luangwa is a favorite safari destination for me. I have traveled to Africa a lot (more than 20 times) and I've done safaris in my fair share of national parks/game preserves, in a variety of countries. My two favorites, by far, are South Luangwa and Chobe (see Sleep on the Plane post for Victoria Falls - January 2014 - for more info on Chobe National Park in Botswana). The animal populations at these parks are amazing and unlike many parks, you get up close and personal. Many parks require that game drivers stick to the roads, which is fine and makes for a comfortable, safe experience but it also means that what you see is impacted by how close the animals get to the road. I'm no longer interested in viewing giraffe from across the plains. For a first timer, it's exhilarating but I've seen far too much and become way too spoiled. So let me show you what makes South Luangwa so special.
I suppose the first factor that makes South Luangwa so special is how absolutely remote it is. It's not easy to get to, nor is it cheap. As a result, the numbers of visitors are low and this makes for a much more enjoyable, personalized experience. The wildlife authority, along with the community, has made conservation in South Luangwa a priority. Many of the camps in Malawi, Zambia and Zimbabwe were started or influenced by Norman Carr, a British conservationist, way ahead of his time. Safaris in South Luangwa focus on education and conservation and animal protection.
I have been to South Luangwa several times and have always stayed at Mfuwe Lodge.
http://www.mfuwelodge.com/
By far the best game guide that I have ever had was at Mfuwe and is name his Peter. He's well known in the area and easily identifiable by his hat of many feathers. I've requested him on return visits. Mfuwe Lodge is run by the Bush Camp Company. The Bush Camp also offers chalets and tented camps , truly in the bush, that accommodate no more than 6-8 guests at at time.
http://www.bushcampcompany.com/bushcamps/
South Luangwa is said to the birthplace of the walking safari. It's a unique perspective but not for the faint of heart. I remember driving with a female guide on a safari in South Africa who told me she once did walking safaris but had been fired from the job when she was on a walk with guests and a rhino was poised and ready to charge. She had a rifle and though she told me her job was to protect the guests, she froze and could not shoot. Fortunately, it was a false charge, intended only to claim the rhino's territory and provide fair warning not to advance.
A driver from Mfuwe Lodge will meet you at the airport and transport you to the lodge. The lodge is nothing short of stunning. My pictures cannot do it justice. If interested, please check out the link above. There is an open air lobby that elephants are said to visit during the months of October and November. They come to eat the leaves of the mopane trees, a favorite for elephants. Private 2 and 3 bedroom chalets surround a lagoon full of hippo.
A guide will show you to your chalet and give you the run down. Meals are at the main lodge. Game drives leave early in the morning, before sunrise, and evening drives lave before sundown. You return to the lodge for a late dinner (around 8pm). A word of advice. Many people equate Africa with hot temperatures. During the day, this is true. But you will be surprised how cold the African nights can get. So when you leave on a drive in the early morning or head back in the dark of the African night, and the Jeep is moving at a quick clip, it gets COLD. Very cold. Game drivers usually keep blankets and hot coffee but dress in layers.
I always end up wearing a fleece and a wind breaker. Many people would never even think to pack a fleece. Don't say I didn't warn you. Speaking of attire, wear long pants and a sleeved shirt. You will be driving in the woods and along river beds. You will get bug bites and scrapes and scratches. Malaria is the disease that kills more people in Africa than any other and it's passed by mosquitos. Take repellent with DEET. Take malaria prophylaxis. Malaria prophylaxis needs to be started two weeks before your trip and continue for 4 weeks on return. Take as directed by your doctor, even if you feel fine.
A guide will return in the morning to retrieve you and walk you to the lodge. You are not allowed to leave the chalets and walk without a guide before sunrise or after sundown, as animals including lion and leopard are free to roam. This is the wild. No fences.
Game vehicles are open top and sit very low to the ground, unlike the high covered trucks that I have been in on other safaris.
On night drives, a guard usually accompanies the safari guide and he will sit in the front seat with the driver. The guard is usually armed. Mfuwe was my first night safari and a first with an armed guard but I soon found out is was with good reason. We pulled under a tree. Our guide, Peter, told us to sit very still and be quiet. And look up. There, on the branch above our heads, was a leopard! To this day, it was one of the most amazing sightings; beautiful, intriguing and slightly frightening.
South Luangwa is one of only 2 places that I have ever witnessed lions with a fresh kill and the only place I have ever seen cubs.
I recall one drive when we drove across an embankment and down along the river. The river banks are a mixture of mud and sand. We passed crocodile basking in the sun.
We continued across the sand and pulled up in front of an elevation of tall grass. Peter told us to sit very still. And then I saw it. There was movement in the grass. That's the key to spotting game. Keep you eyes open for subtle change. The movement of grass, the rustling of a tree.
Through the grass, you could see a pride of lions, lying by the riverbed. And behind the lioness was the tiny heads of the cubs. We sat there and watched for what seemed like an eternity.
Another Jeep was approaching, but sat back waiting for us to leave in order to get a closer look. Peter threw our Jeep in reverse to allow the driver of the other vehicle an opportunity. But when the next Jeep tried to advance, his wheels just spun in the dirt. He was stuck. Peter jumped our and helped give a push but all I could think about were the lions. And they were very close. It was not the first time I saw a vehicle get stuck and made me even more grateful for my skilled drivers.
Peter was never afraid to make his own tracks, in fact, he did it all the time. While some may think this is dangerous, I never felt like I was in eminent danger. Yes, being so close to dangerous predators can be scary but it is also exhilarating and I always get lost in the excitement. The guides truly understand animal behavior and are incredibly experienced. Yes, animals are unpredictable. But I always felt that I was in good hands. One late afternoon, Peter was driving the dirt paths when he slowed down and told us to look in the sky. There were vultures circling and where there are vultures circling, there is a fresh kill nearby. Peter began to turn the vehicle around when he saw another vehicle in the distance. Not wanting to be followed, he backed into the tall grass and waited for the vehicle to pass. We were on the hunt for a kill and Peter wanted to give us a private showing.
Peter followed the direction of the vultures and suddenly, there is was! Two female lions had taken down an impala and were feeding on their fresh kill. We pulled up close. Peter told us to sit still. A command I was getting very used to. The lions don't make out individuals. They see the vehicle and those inside as one large object and unless we made sudden movements or loud noises, it was likely to stay that way. One lion briefly stopped feeding, looked up, walked around her kill and feeling unthreatened, got right back to feeding.
As the night sky takes over, a whole new world of animals come to life. The hippos leave the river and make their way onto land.
Many predators, including hyena, hunt at night. And the vast fields become filled with only the bright eyes, hundreds of eyes, glistening in the night.
We found another young leopard, crouched low in the grass, stalking his prey. Suddenly, he took off but this time, the impala was too quick and his hunt was unsuccessful.
We pulled up to a small watering hole where 3 found giraffe were getting a drink. Their longs necks can't reach the ground without awkward positioning of those long skinny legs. They move so effortlessly and are so beautiful but quite funny to watch bend down for a drink. The giraffe almost seemed to want to entertain us, pulling water into their mouths and spitting it into the air. They also began the playful activity of "necking". They swing their long necks and swat one another in the next And they stood, necks twisted, almost as if to pose.
Then we turned through some trees to an opening in the woods and there was the surprise. This is why we weren't seeing animals. Peter had arranged for a full breakfast in the bush. Staff from the lodge had been out setting up the fires and setting the table. We had eggs and bacon, toast and jam cooked over a fire in the open bush. It was such an amazing treat!!
Mfuwe Lodge and South Luangwa National Park are unforgettable and a favorite place I will return to again and again. If you're ever looking for someone to join you, give me a call. This is one place I could never tire of!
Thanks for checking it out!
Robin
South Luangwa is a favorite safari destination for me. I have traveled to Africa a lot (more than 20 times) and I've done safaris in my fair share of national parks/game preserves, in a variety of countries. My two favorites, by far, are South Luangwa and Chobe (see Sleep on the Plane post for Victoria Falls - January 2014 - for more info on Chobe National Park in Botswana). The animal populations at these parks are amazing and unlike many parks, you get up close and personal. Many parks require that game drivers stick to the roads, which is fine and makes for a comfortable, safe experience but it also means that what you see is impacted by how close the animals get to the road. I'm no longer interested in viewing giraffe from across the plains. For a first timer, it's exhilarating but I've seen far too much and become way too spoiled. So let me show you what makes South Luangwa so special.
I suppose the first factor that makes South Luangwa so special is how absolutely remote it is. It's not easy to get to, nor is it cheap. As a result, the numbers of visitors are low and this makes for a much more enjoyable, personalized experience. The wildlife authority, along with the community, has made conservation in South Luangwa a priority. Many of the camps in Malawi, Zambia and Zimbabwe were started or influenced by Norman Carr, a British conservationist, way ahead of his time. Safaris in South Luangwa focus on education and conservation and animal protection.
I have been to South Luangwa several times and have always stayed at Mfuwe Lodge.
http://www.mfuwelodge.com/
 |
| Peter, a great guide at Mfuwe Lodge in South Luangwa |
http://www.bushcampcompany.com/bushcamps/
South Luangwa is said to the birthplace of the walking safari. It's a unique perspective but not for the faint of heart. I remember driving with a female guide on a safari in South Africa who told me she once did walking safaris but had been fired from the job when she was on a walk with guests and a rhino was poised and ready to charge. She had a rifle and though she told me her job was to protect the guests, she froze and could not shoot. Fortunately, it was a false charge, intended only to claim the rhino's territory and provide fair warning not to advance.
A driver from Mfuwe Lodge will meet you at the airport and transport you to the lodge. The lodge is nothing short of stunning. My pictures cannot do it justice. If interested, please check out the link above. There is an open air lobby that elephants are said to visit during the months of October and November. They come to eat the leaves of the mopane trees, a favorite for elephants. Private 2 and 3 bedroom chalets surround a lagoon full of hippo.
A guide will show you to your chalet and give you the run down. Meals are at the main lodge. Game drives leave early in the morning, before sunrise, and evening drives lave before sundown. You return to the lodge for a late dinner (around 8pm). A word of advice. Many people equate Africa with hot temperatures. During the day, this is true. But you will be surprised how cold the African nights can get. So when you leave on a drive in the early morning or head back in the dark of the African night, and the Jeep is moving at a quick clip, it gets COLD. Very cold. Game drivers usually keep blankets and hot coffee but dress in layers.
I always end up wearing a fleece and a wind breaker. Many people would never even think to pack a fleece. Don't say I didn't warn you. Speaking of attire, wear long pants and a sleeved shirt. You will be driving in the woods and along river beds. You will get bug bites and scrapes and scratches. Malaria is the disease that kills more people in Africa than any other and it's passed by mosquitos. Take repellent with DEET. Take malaria prophylaxis. Malaria prophylaxis needs to be started two weeks before your trip and continue for 4 weeks on return. Take as directed by your doctor, even if you feel fine.
A guide will return in the morning to retrieve you and walk you to the lodge. You are not allowed to leave the chalets and walk without a guide before sunrise or after sundown, as animals including lion and leopard are free to roam. This is the wild. No fences.
Game vehicles are open top and sit very low to the ground, unlike the high covered trucks that I have been in on other safaris.
On night drives, a guard usually accompanies the safari guide and he will sit in the front seat with the driver. The guard is usually armed. Mfuwe was my first night safari and a first with an armed guard but I soon found out is was with good reason. We pulled under a tree. Our guide, Peter, told us to sit very still and be quiet. And look up. There, on the branch above our heads, was a leopard! To this day, it was one of the most amazing sightings; beautiful, intriguing and slightly frightening.
South Luangwa is one of only 2 places that I have ever witnessed lions with a fresh kill and the only place I have ever seen cubs.
I recall one drive when we drove across an embankment and down along the river. The river banks are a mixture of mud and sand. We passed crocodile basking in the sun.
We continued across the sand and pulled up in front of an elevation of tall grass. Peter told us to sit very still. And then I saw it. There was movement in the grass. That's the key to spotting game. Keep you eyes open for subtle change. The movement of grass, the rustling of a tree.
Through the grass, you could see a pride of lions, lying by the riverbed. And behind the lioness was the tiny heads of the cubs. We sat there and watched for what seemed like an eternity.
Another Jeep was approaching, but sat back waiting for us to leave in order to get a closer look. Peter threw our Jeep in reverse to allow the driver of the other vehicle an opportunity. But when the next Jeep tried to advance, his wheels just spun in the dirt. He was stuck. Peter jumped our and helped give a push but all I could think about were the lions. And they were very close. It was not the first time I saw a vehicle get stuck and made me even more grateful for my skilled drivers.
Peter followed the direction of the vultures and suddenly, there is was! Two female lions had taken down an impala and were feeding on their fresh kill. We pulled up close. Peter told us to sit still. A command I was getting very used to. The lions don't make out individuals. They see the vehicle and those inside as one large object and unless we made sudden movements or loud noises, it was likely to stay that way. One lion briefly stopped feeding, looked up, walked around her kill and feeling unthreatened, got right back to feeding.
As the night sky takes over, a whole new world of animals come to life. The hippos leave the river and make their way onto land.
Many predators, including hyena, hunt at night. And the vast fields become filled with only the bright eyes, hundreds of eyes, glistening in the night.
We found another young leopard, crouched low in the grass, stalking his prey. Suddenly, he took off but this time, the impala was too quick and his hunt was unsuccessful.
Peter showed off his extensive bush skills on the drive back to the lodge, as he told us about a bird called the nightjar. From the reflection of the headlights, you could see the bird flittering around the vehicle. Peter reached out and grabbed the bird in his bare hands, holding the bird as he talked about the creature. It was nothing shy of amazing!
Morning drives consisted of a wide variety of spottings. We saws herds of elephant, zebra and impala.
We saw waterbuck, kudu and buffalo.
And giraffe! They are so graceful when they move with their long legs!
On the last morning drive, something seemed a bit strange. We seemed hurried. We weren't spotting any animals. I'd been on enough game drives to know that when the guides start to teach you about different grass and tree varieties, there isn't much game nearby.
I was disappointed. Frustrated. I wanted to see more lions, zebras, monkeys, anything.
Then we turned through some trees to an opening in the woods and there was the surprise. This is why we weren't seeing animals. Peter had arranged for a full breakfast in the bush. Staff from the lodge had been out setting up the fires and setting the table. We had eggs and bacon, toast and jam cooked over a fire in the open bush. It was such an amazing treat!!
Thanks for checking it out!
Robin
